Even though we had steady rainfall all day, I loved Sienna: its history, old buildings, narrow streets, hills, cleanliness, and beautiful surroundings.
The Etruscans were the original settlers in this area (900-400 BC).These advanced people used irrigation to reclaim previously unfarmable land and built their settlements in well-defended hill forts. Siena did not prosper under Roman rule. Since It was not situated near any major roads, it lacked opportunities for trade. Eventually, Siena prospered after the Lombards invaded it and the surrounding territory. In 774 they, in turn, surrendered to Charlemagne. Eventually, it became the Republic of Siena (the late 11th century until the year 1555).
The Duomo di Siena, Our Lady of the Assumption Cathedral, was built in the 1200’s and combines elements of French Gothic, Tuscan Romanesque architecture, and Classical architecture.
The inlaid marble mosaic floor is one of the most ornate of its kind in Italy. Since they only uncover the floor for six to ten weeks each year, we were so fortunate to be there at this time of year.
One of the most interesting areas to me was the Piccolomini Library adjoining the cathedral. Below is its beautiful ceiling.
Along the walls of the library, glass cases contain the first written manuscripts of Gregorian Chants. Each page is quite large because it was viewed by many monks at the same time.
Siena is divided into 17 contrade (districts or wards). These districts were set up in the Middle Ages in order to supply troops to the many military companies that were hired to defend Siena as it fought to defend its independence from Florence and other nearby city states. Today, they are simply areas of localized patriotism. Every important event – baptisms, deaths, marriages, church holidays, victories at the Palio, even wine or food festivals – is celebrated only within one's own contrada. Siena is a very clean and crime free city because of these contrade.
Every contrada has its own museum, fountain and baptismal font, motto, and animal mascot. We were fortunate that we were given permission to enter our local guide’s church of the Selva (Forest) Contrada. Their orange and green flag is on the right, and their mascot is the rhinoceros. Notice the banner on the left. More about that after the next photo.
The major event of the contrade is the Palio di Siena. It is a horse race that is held twice each year, on July 2 and August 16. Ten horses and riders, bareback and dressed in the appropriate colors, represent ten of the seventeen contrade. The seven contrade that do not take part in the July race are automatically included in the August race plus three more are chosen by a drawing. A lottery then determines which horse will run for each contrada. The race consists of three laps around the Piazza del Campo and lasts less than two minutes. The banner in the above photo is from this year’s Palio won by the Forest Contrada. These coveted banners from previous victories are proudly displayed in their museum. Thanks to the internet, we have a photo of il Palio.
This is how the Piazza del Campo looked on our rainy day today.
On our ride home, we visited the World War II Florence American Cemetery and Memorial about 30 minutes outside the city. After an informative talk, we ended our day of touring with a flag ceremony.
I could have added many more pictures and commentary to today’s blog, it was such a full day. But it’s time to call it a day and look forward to more adventures tomorrow.
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