Home Again

After a trip, I like to reflect on what stood out and what was most meaningful.  The entire trip was quite a lesson in Western Civilization, beginning with ancient Rome and moving towards Italy of today. I especially loved the Pantheon in Rome.  In Florence, I was captivated while learning about the Renaissance and how after 1000 years in the Middle Ages, the masters reached back to early Rome to advance in the arts, architecture, and sciences. David was such a masterpiece. I especially enjoyed our visit to Siena with its hills, old buildings, and learning about the contrade. These 17 districts create civic pride and have kept the city clean and crime free over the centuries.  The relaxed pace on the Italian Riviera was a welcome change, but I’m more of a mountain girl than sea, so I loved our time in Bolzano. The scenery was spectacular, and I found their 20^th century history very interesting. Changing between German and Italian speaking populations as countries drew new borders after the wars, South Tyrol is a multicultural area. When I asked some of the locals if they consider themselves German or Italian, the usual response was, “I speak both German and Italian. I consider myself South Tyrolean.” Our final destination, Venice, was also quite interesting with its history, canals, and palaces.   

This trip supplied such rich scenery. There seems to be no drought in Italy as everything from Rome onward is so green. We saw rolling hills, small coastal cities, majestic mountains, farms with terraced crops of grapes, kiwi, and apple trees, drove through many tunnels, and rode in the vaporetto through canals. Our Program Directors and city guides were outstanding, plus we had the most convivial group of travelers one could ever hope for. All this made for a trip that will be long remembered.  

Below is an eleven minute slideshow of our trip set to some Dean Martin Italian/American songs.  Enjoy as you have time and interest.

https://youtu.be/IhiHGkoztn4

Day 18 ~ Venice

On our way from Bolzano to Venice, we encountered the majestic Alps, rivers, long tunnels, hillside medieval castles, vineyards, apple orchards, and kiwi vines. This region is second only to New Zealand for growing kiwi.

I get excited whenever I get a decent photo of a castle as we whiz by them in the bus.  This one was exceptional as it was on the side of a cliff.

The original population of Venice consisted of refugees from Roman cities near Venice  and from the undefended countryside who were fleeing successive waves of Germanic and Hun invasions. Venice became a major maritime power during the middle ages and Renaissance and an important center of commerce. This made Venice a wealthy city throughout most of its history. It is built on more than 100 small islands in a marshy lagoon in the Adriatic Sea. There are no cars or roadways, just canals, boats and hundreds of bridges.

Once in Venice, we took a vaporetto (public water bus) to our hotel.  This is the view of Grand Canal from our balcony window.  There are only two balcony rooms at the hotel so we really hit the jackpot.

Saint Mark's Basilica is one of the best known examples of Italo-Byzantine architecture. In the 11th century it was nicknamed Chiesa d'Oro (Church of gold) because of its interior and exterior gold mosaics. Venetian merchants stole the supposed relics of Mark the Evangelist from Alexandria in the 9th century. They are now housed inside the cathedral. 

St Mark’s Clock Tower dates back to the 1490s. At the top of the tower, two great bronze figures strike the hours on the bell. The Since the 12 century the winged lion has been the symbol of Venice and its patron saint, St. Mark. The time on the clock is 3:55.  The hours on the left are written in Roman numerals.  The round clock face at the bottom  is engraved with 24 hours of the day in Roman numerals and also has signs of the zodiac in gold.

I took lots and lots of photos of the palaces along the Grand Canal, but am only including a couple of my favorites.  Below is Palazzo Ca’d’Oro, one of the oldest in the city.  It is now open to the public as a gallery.

Palazzo Barbarigo was originally built in the 16th century. Today it is one of the more opulent palazzi on the canal, distinguished by its moaics of Murano glass applied in 1886.

And here we are with our fearless Program Director, Matteo. He did a wonderful job of keeping us organized and on track all the while showing us a great time. 

 

We will be up at 3:00 AM to take a water taxi to the airport to fly home Monday morning.  It has been such a wonderful trip!

Day 17 ~ Innsbruck

We were up bright and early once again this morning so we could participate in the optional tour of Innsbruck, Austria. Innsbruck became the capital of all Tyrol in 1429. When Emperor Maximilian I resided in Innsbruck in the 1490s, the city became a center of European politics and culture. It is an internationally- renowned winter sports center having hosted several Winter Olympic games. 

We visited the Baroque St. James Cathedral built in the 1700’s. The artists of this time like to work with illusion. This ceiling fresco was created to look like it was painted in a dome while in reality, it is really a flat surface. 

The Goldenes Dachl (Golden Roof) is a landmark structure located in the Old Town.  Completed in 1500, it was designed to serve as a royal box where the Emperor and his imperial entourage could sit in state and enjoy festivals, tournaments, and other events that took place in the square below.

The Goldener Adler in Innsbruck dates back to 1390. It is one of the oldest original historical hotel buildings in Europe.

Below is the who’s who list of those staying at the hotel beginning with Maximilian I in 1494 and including Mozart in 1773, Maria Trapp in 1958, and Jean Paul Sartre in 1972.

Swarovski’s flagship store is in Innsbruck. This display of dresses imbedded with crystals was one of their many beautiful displays. And yes, I succumbed to temptation and purchased a small bracelet there.

On the way to Innsbruck, we went over Brenner Pass and the Europabrucke, the tallest road bridge in Europe. The two platforms in the middle of the bridge are for the bungee  jumpers.

Photos just don’t capture the beauty of this area.  Around every bend, there is another beautiful scene of snow capped mountains and bucolic farms.

Tomorrow, we leave Bolzano for our final day in Venice. 

Day 16 ~ Bolzano & the Dolomites

Today our group was  transported to the beautiful Dolomites which form a part of the Southern Limestone Alps. A tourist mecca, the Dolomites are famous for skiing in the winter months and mountain climbing, hiking, cycling, and base jumping, as well as paragliding and hang gliding, in summer and late spring/early autumn.

Our first stop was in the picturesque village of Ortisei.  Its streets were lined with Gasthofs (small hotels), displays of wood carvings in store windows, sport shops, and pastry shops to name a few.  We were treated to fall colors, a dust of snow on the mountains tops, ski lodges and gondolas as shown in the photo below.

As we climbed the mountains, we saw villages in the valleys below.

Finally we reached the majestic Dolomites.

We were fortunate to get these views.  After lunch, the snow began falling obscuring any view of the mountains.

Thanks to our bus driver, Rudy, who navigated the many hairpin curves to get us back to our hotel, safe and sound. 

Day 15 ~ Bolzano

Bolzano is the capital city of the province of South Tyrol in northern Italy. With a population of 105,713 (2013), Bolzano is by far the largest city in South Tyrol. When walking the streets of this city, however, it feels more German than Italian.

The area became part Italy after WWI in 1919. Wanting more Italians to settle in this region, Mussolini brought industry to Bolzano. The population of 35,000 grew to 100,000 by 1936. During this time, Italian was the only acceptable language.  When Mussolini fell in 1939, the Nazis took over, and the Italians were persecuted.  At the end of WWII, South Tyrol was once again part of Italy; but many compromises were made. All signs are in both Italian and German; there are both Italian and German public schools; all individuals holding jobs in the public sector must be bilingual.  It appears that the two cultures are co-existing quite well since Bolzano ranked first in a 2010 and 2012 quality-of-life survey by the Italian newspaper of 107 Italian cities.

One very important celebrity of Bolzano is Ötzi the Iceman displayed in the South Tyrol Museum of Archaeology. Found in 1991 in the Ötztal Alps on the border between Austria and Italy, he is a well-preserved natural mummy of a man who lived 5300 years ago. His body, clothing and tools provide revealing insights into a human being’s day-to-day life at the end of the late Stone Age. Below is a model of what scientists believe Ötzi might have looked like.

We were not allowed to take pictures of the mummified Ötzi; but thanks to Wikipedia, here he is.

After lunch, Bonnie and I went to the Runkelstein Castle.  Although building of the castle began in 1237, its moment of glory was in 1385 when bourgeois brothers, Franz and Niklaus Vintler, purchased it. Because they wanted to compete with their contemporary nobles, they commissioned unique frescos for the whole structure. Its wall contain the largest existing display of secular medieval frescoes. Unfortunately, we weren’t allowed to take any pictures of the frescoes, and the Internet did not come to my rescue. At least here’s a photo of the castle. We had quite a hike to get there from the road below.

This is a view of the valley below from one of the castle windows.  Vineyards all all around the city and grow on terraces on the mountainside. 

We hear we may be in for some snow tomorrow as we travel to the Dolomites in the Alps.

Day 14 ~ Verona & Bolzano

On our way to Bolzano in the Italian Alps, we visited Verona. This northern Italian city is famous for being the setting of Shakespeare’s "Romeo and Juliet." It's home to a 14th-century house said to have “Juliet’s balcony,” even though the building’s connection to the play is fictional.

As the legend goes, rubbing the bronze right breast of the Juliet statue in the courtyard will turn around your luck with love. The statue had to be replaced in 2014 when that part of her anatomy had been rubbed thin.

Verona is also famous for its Roman amphitheater, the Arena, found in the city's largest piazza, the Piazza Bra. Completed around 30 AD, it is the third largest in Italy and at one time could seat some 25,000 spectators. It has remained in use even today for public events, fairs, theatre and open-aired opera during warm summer nights.

Porta Borsari is an ancient Roman gate in Verona. It dates to the 1st century AD though it was most likely built over a pre-existing gate from the 1st century BC. An inscription on the gate reports another reconstruction in 265 AD.

The frescoed Mazzanti Houses from the late 1500’s can be found in the Piazza delle Erbe (Market's square).  It was once the town's forum during the time of the Roman Empire.

We all decided we would love to spend a few days exploring Verona so we reluctantly returned to our bus and headed towards Bolzano. After enjoying the beautiful scenery of the Alps, it didn’t take long for us to get excited about our next adventure.

Day 13 ~ Cinque Terra

The Cinque Terre is a rugged portion of coast on the Italian Riviera. "The Five Lands" comprises five villages: Monterosso al Mare, Vernazza, Corniglia, Manarola, and Riomaggiore. The coastline, the five villages, and the surrounding hillsides are all part of the Cinque Terre National Park and is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

This morning, our group hopped on the train for Cinque Terre.  There are few roads into the Cinque Terre towns that are accessible by car so train is the best mode of transportation. Our first stop was Vernazza, the second town seen on the map at the bottom. It has no car traffic and remains one of the truest "fishing villages" on the Italian Riviera. It is quite small but charming. 

Below is another view of Vernazza.

We also visited Manarola, 4th town on the map below. Manarola may be the oldest of the towns in the Cinque Terra whose primary industries have traditionally been fishing and wine-making. Notice the terraces in the photo below for growing grapes. Today, Manarola and its neighboring towns have become popular  destinations for tourism which is now their major industry. Hardy hikers make their way from village to village on their trail system.

Below is a map of Cinque Terra. Today, we visited the two towns circled in yellow, Vernazza and Manarola.  Eleven years ago, I visited Monterossa, the first town on the left, with my daughter, Kelly and her husband, Ben.

So tonight, we are packing our bags as we leave the Italian Riviera in the morning and travel towards the Italian Alps.

Day 12 ~ Santa Margherita Ligure

Santa Margherita became a renowned tourist resort after World War II.  Its port is also used for fishing activities. As you can tell by the dark skies, we did receive some rain today; but it didn’t dampen our spirits.  We had a relaxed morning and walked along the seashore. 

Many of the colorful buildings are quite beautiful with the faux finish on their exterior.

We hit the jackpot when were assigned our room which is a lovely suite.

In the afternoon, we took a very crowded public bus ride into Portofino. This quaint town is an Italian fishing village and vacation resort famous for its picturesque harbor and historical association with celebrity and artistic visitors. Below are two celebrity visitors you may recognize.  

During our walk through the village, we saw their sculptures and botanical gardens.

More rain is predicted for tomorrow, but we hope to make it to Cinque Terra as long as it isn’t too heavy. 

Day 11 ~ Pisa & Santa Margherita

This morning we said good-bye to Tuscany and moved north to the Italian Riviera.  On the way, we stopped in Pisa for lunch and to visit the famous Leaning Tower of Pisa. Work on the tower began in 1173. The tower's tilt began during construction because the ground was too soft on one side of the foundation to properly support the structure's weight. The tilt increased in the decades before the structure was completed and gradually increased until the structure was stabilized (and the tilt partially corrected) in the late 20th and early 21st centuries.

While passing though the city of Carrara, we saw striking mountains where Carrara marble is quarried. This high quality, white or blue-grey marble is popularly used in sculpture (Michelangelo’s David) and building material (the Pantheon).  The photo below captures not only the mountain quarry, but where it is manufactured into slabs for building as well.

We frequently spotted mountaintop  villages in the green hills as we rode through beautiful Tuscany and beyond. 

We arrived in Santa Margherita by the late afternoon  and took a five minute walk to the seashore.  From the pier, we could see Cinque Terra at a distance. We should be able to slow our pace a bit to enjoy the lovely Italian Riviera for the next couple of days. 

Day 10 ~ Siena

Even though we had steady rainfall all day, I loved Sienna: its history, old buildings, narrow streets, hills, cleanliness, and beautiful surroundings.

The Etruscans were the original settlers in this area (900-400 BC).These advanced people used irrigation to reclaim previously unfarmable land and built their settlements in well-defended hill forts. Siena did not prosper under Roman rule. Since It was not situated near any major roads, it lacked opportunities for trade. Eventually, Siena prospered after the Lombards invaded it and the surrounding territory.  In 774 they, in turn, surrendered to Charlemagne. Eventually, it became the Republic of Siena (the late 11th century until the year 1555).

The Duomo di Siena, Our Lady of the Assumption Cathedral, was built in the 1200’s and combines elements of French Gothic, Tuscan Romanesque architecture, and Classical architecture.

The inlaid marble mosaic floor is one of the most ornate of its kind in Italy. Since they only uncover the floor for six to ten weeks each year, we were so fortunate to be there at this time of year.

One of the most interesting areas to me was the Piccolomini Library adjoining the cathedral.  Below is its beautiful ceiling.

Along the walls of the library, glass cases contain the first written manuscripts of Gregorian Chants.  Each page is quite large because it was viewed by many monks at the same time.

Siena is divided into 17 contrade (districts or wards).  These districts were set up in the Middle Ages in order to supply troops to the many military companies that were hired to defend Siena as it fought to defend its independence from Florence and other nearby city states. Today, they are simply areas of localized patriotism. Every important event – baptisms, deaths, marriages, church holidays, victories at the Palio, even wine or food festivals – is celebrated only within one's own contrada. Siena is a very clean and crime free city because of these contrade.

Every contrada has its own museum, fountain and baptismal font, motto, and animal mascot.  We were fortunate that we were given permission to enter our local guide’s church of the Selva (Forest) Contrada.  Their orange and green flag is on the right, and their mascot is the rhinoceros. Notice the banner on the left.  More about that after the next photo. 

The major event of the contrade is the Palio di Siena. It is a horse race that is held twice each year, on July 2 and August 16. Ten horses and riders, bareback and dressed in the appropriate colors, represent ten of the seventeen contrade. The seven contrade that do not take part in the July race are automatically included in the August race plus three more are chosen by a drawing. A lottery then determines which horse will run for each contrada. The race consists of three laps around the Piazza del Campo and lasts less than two minutes.  The banner in the above photo is from this year’s Palio won by the Forest Contrada.  These coveted banners from previous victories are proudly displayed in their museum. Thanks to the internet, we have a photo of il Palio.

This is how the Piazza del Campo looked on our rainy day today.

On our ride home, we visited the World War II Florence American Cemetery and Memorial about 30 minutes outside the city. After an informative talk, we ended our day of touring with a flag ceremony.

I could have added many more pictures and commentary to today’s blog, it was such a full day.  But it’s time to call it a day and look forward to more adventures tomorrow.